Unique Pura Lingsar Temple, Lombok

Pura Lingsar Temple is sacred and unique because it blends two religions: Wetu Telu, a combination of Adat and Islam, practiced by the Sasak people, Lombok’s natives; and Balinese Hinduism. The Sasak people adopted beliefs from Hinduism but kept their native animistic traditions even though they still consider themselves Muslim. Pura Lingsar is Lombok’s most important religious site as well as main tourist attraction. The temple was built in 1714 by Balinese Hindus when they first visited Lombok.
Guide Nasip and driver picked us up at Hotel Graha Beach Senggigi and we headed south through Mataram before turning east to Pura Lingsar Temple. Nasip is not allowed to enter Lombok tourist attractions because local guides have a lock on showing tourists around. He turned us over to guide Udah who began a rapid fire introduction to Pura Lingsar. It was easy to see that he was determined to show us around as quickly as possible, get rid of us, and go on to the next tourist. He began explanations in front of two gorgeous ponds filled with water lilies/lotus blossoms. One pond symbolized Bali while the other symbolized Lombok. Each also had statues of twin brothers along with a long story that was very boring.

Pura Lingsar Temple lily/lotus ponds, Lombok

Pura Lingsar Temple entrance and guardians, Lombok

A 5,000 Rupiah donation to the temple allowed us use their yellow temple scarves to tie around waists. Temple scarves function to divide the upper body and mind with sacred thoughts from lower body sexual thoughts. The temple also sold hard-boiled eggs to feed the holy eels. Udah was unenthusiastic about buying eggs. “You have to get a priest to unlock the pond gate. You have to pay for the eggs. The eels may not come out of their hole.” With that, we left the eggs behind and entered Pura Lingsar.
We had just missed a buffalo sacrifice. Not that I enjoy watching a buffalo get his throat slashed while blood gushes all over, but rituals are interesting. A live buffalo and a goat were tethered on the temple grounds happily chomping grass. (Little did they know this would be their last meal.) Locals bring their own sacrifices to the temple, cook the meat and hang the animal heads by a holy well (filled with “holy eels”) inside the inner courtyard. The freshly butchered buffalo stunk! Other local Sasaks were busy preparing even more offerings; chickens “sacrificed” at home, brought to Pura Lingsar, grilled and served on a bed of rice. Some to eat, some to offer.

grilled chicken offerings at Pura Lingsar Temple, Lombok

Pura Lingsar Temple holy eel pond, Lombok

buffalo head sacrifice at Pura Lingsar Temple, Lombok

The northern, elevated part of the temple was the Hindu section with the Wetu Telu section in the south. Don’t even ask which was which. Udah confused the living hell out of me describing Hindu and Sasak Muslim customs. However, the most interesting sights in Pura Lingsar had to do with the Wetu Telu beliefs:
- The “holy eels,” holed up in the “holy pond,” and sacred to Vishnu;

- A row of “holy” rocks garbed in white and yellow brought by a king (whomever he was) with more sacrifices in front of them. Children are brought to this place for circumcision rituals; and

- A “holy spring” with separate areas for women and men to bathe.

holy rocks and statuary at Pura Lingsar Temple, Lombok

Pura Lingsar holy water jars, Lombok

To add even more confusion to the mix, the Chinese also come here to worship. But they sacrifice a goat, take the goat’s head and place it on their automobile for about 30 minutes. Can you imagine seeing a car with a goat’s head on it?  That would have been the ultimate sight!

demon gatekeeper at Pura Lingsar Temple, Lombok

A tip to ungracious Udah who didn’t even say thank you. It’s an old story. Whatever you give is never enough for some people.

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